GARDENING JOBS IN DECEMBER
Fruit and Vegetables
Start to force a crown on Rhubarb now by placing a layer of loose straw over the plant and then covering with an upturned bucket.
Move Blueberries growing in pots to a sheltered place in the garden and wrap the pot in hessian or straw to protect the roots from any prolonged frosty spells which may occur from now on.
Grapevines can be pruned now when they are fully dormant (all leaves have gone). Pruning now or in January will prevent “bleeding”.
Check over any stored fruit and vegetables on a regular basis to check for rotting and remove urgently before the others become infected.
Brussels Sprout plants can be severely weakened by strong winds so if yours are in an exposed site staking each plant will improve the situation no end and prevent the plants from being uprooted.
Flowers
Make sure that plants growing in containers do not dry out, especially if against a wall. This is often neglected at this time of year.
Keep gift plants such as Azaleas and bulbs cool to prolong the display. If you had an Amaryllis last winter and it has been rested, it can be given a first watering now to start it back into growth.
Pests and Diseases
To control Brown Rot on fruit trees, cut away all mummified fruits from the trees at this time to help prevent infection next year.
Spray small fruit trees now while they are dormant with Vitax Winter Wash to lessen the number of over-wintering pests.
JOBS TO DO IN NOVEMBER
Vegetables Keep over wintering Brassicas covered with netting to help prevent damage by pigeons. An attack will certainly occur as soon as the first cold weather arises. Chives and Mint can be potted up now and kept on the kitchen window sill to force for winter use.
Dig up some Parsnips and Carrots and store in moist sand near to the house for winter use before the ground gets too frozen to lift them. Clear away all plant debris from the vegetable plot and compost, except for Brassica roots etc. Dig over the plot and leave rough for the winter. Incorporate manure and/or compost in early spring.
Ornamentals Plant bare root trees and shrubs as soon as possible while the soil is still relatively warm. Remove fallen leaves which can collect among the roots of Herbaceous Perennials and cause rotting. Shorten the long shoots of Hybrid Tea and Cluster (Floribunda) Roses to reduce wind rock. Complete the planting of spring bulbs as soon as possible. Before the first real frosts start, protect vulnerable plants with straw or bracken and wrap around the stems with Hessian or fleece. Do not use polythene as this will cause sweating and dramatically increase the chance of losses. Several hardy herbaceous perennials can be successfully propagated by root cuttings taken now. Dicentra spectablis (Bleeding Heart) and Phlox are two examples.
Fruit Check over Apples and Pears in store regularly for signs of decay before they start to rot their neighbours in the tray. Now is an ideal time to put Grease bands around the trunks of Apple trees to help reduce the attack of “Maggots” in the fruit next year.
Pests and Diseases Check the foliage of over wintering Geraniums in the greenhouse for signs of Rust and Botrytis and remove all affected leaves urgently. Many other plants can be affected at this time of year with Botrytis especially if the greenhouse ventilators are not opened on every possible occasion to keep the air moving.
Lawns Make the final cut of the lawn this month but remember to keep off the lawn in frosty weather. Rake off fallen leaves on a regular basis.
Oil and grease the mower before it is stored away for the winter
Pot Plants Reduce the amount of watering and feeding as the plants prepare themselves for winter. However, houseplants in your warmest room should be watered as often as it is necessary but feeding can now be reduced to once a month.
RECENT QUESTIONS. “Can I grow Blueberries in pots and are any varieties better than others for this purpose?”
Blueberries do very well when grown in pots but you must have an ericaceous compost to pot them up into, also a ready supply of rainwater to water them at all times. Tap water which is basically alkaline will severely damage or kill Blueberries if used over a prolong period An occasional watering if the water butt runs dry will do no harm, however, only use as a last resort. Among the best varieties to select from are Duke, Patriot, Spartan and Sunshine Blue.
Question 2 “Can I fertilize and mulch my plants with manure and garden compost in the autumn or should I wait until spring?”
Fertilizers should only be used in the spring and summer months when the plants are growing and able to take up the available nutrients produced. If applied in the autumn or early winter so much of the available nutrients will be leached out with the winter rains so by spring very little if any will still be available to your plants when it is really needed. Even slow to breakdown fertilizers such as Blood Fish and Bone meal or Chicken pellets are best left to late winter before applying. Mulches in the form of manure, leaf mould, garden compost are best applied in early spring because of the leaching out effect mentioned earlier. All mulches should always be applied to moist ground, never on the top of dry soil.
GARDENING JOBS FOR OCTOBER
Flowers Plant up containers with Pansies, Violas, Polyanthus, Bellis and Wallflowers and mix with the coloured leaved forms of Ivy to trail over the edge and Spring bulbs to grow up through the display.
Towards the end of the month we could experience the first frost, which will blacken the growth of Cannas, Dahlias and other tender perennials. When this occurs, cut off the growth at just above soil level and dig up the roots with some soil still attached and store away for the winter in a dry and frost free place in an upside down position. This will drain moisture away from the crown as the stems decay and the drying out process continues. Do not be tempted to cover the roots at this stage and certainly never cover the roots with polythene at any time. Alternatively, some people prefer to leave the roots in the soil particularly if you have a well-drained soil. If this is so, cover over the crowns of the plants with a mulch of straw, bracken, leave mould or old potting compost to a depth of 10cm (4”). The plants should then come through the winter unscathed.
Trees and shrubs Plant new trees and shrubs now while the soil temperatures are still relatively warm, this will aid establishment greatly.
Propagate ornamentals such as Roses, Cornus, Forsythia and Philadelphus by hardwood cuttings. Cut a piece of this year’s growth and trim to approximately 9 to 12 inches in length. Remove the top section and cut just below the leaf bud at the base of the cutting. Insert about two-thirds its depth in the soil where it can be left undisturbed for the next twelve months or insert several cuttings around the edge of a deep pot and leave outside in a sheltered position.
Fruit Pick the last of the apples as they ripen and plant any new fruit bushes required now. Prune out the old fruited canes of Blackberries and other hybrid berries and tie in new growth to supports.
Apply grease bands around trunks of fruit trees to protect from winter moth damage in spring.
Vegetables Finish the planting of Onion sets and Garlic. Continue to harvest Pumpkins, Squashes and Marrows. Lift the last of the Potatoes before frosts start.
Diseases Rake up fallen leaves around Roses to limit the spread of Black Spot and other fungal diseases next year.
GARDENING NOTES FOR SEPTEMBER
Flowers There is still time to take cuttings of tender or borderline hardy perennials such as Fuchsia, Pelargonium and Penstemon to overwinter under cover.
Continue to feed and deadhead summer bedding plants as many will flower right on until the first frost.
Now is a good time to buy and plant late flowering herbaceous perennials as you see those you like at a nursery or garden centre. Planted now, they will establish quickly and give you an even better display at this time next year.
If you wish to increase your plants by seed, this time of year is good to collect seeds from perennials. Cut the seed heads off, dry them thoroughly and place in a paper bag ready for the seed to be shed.
Start to plant spring flowering bulbs in containers as well as beds and borders in the garden.
Vegetables Once the tassels of Sweet corn turn brown check to see if the cobs are ready for harvesting.
Plant Onion and Shallot sets suitable for overwintering at the end of the month.
Continue to harvest Apples and Pears as they ripen and store in a cool well ventilated place.
Harvest Maincrop Potatoes now, lift the tubers and leave to dry for a few hours before storing in hessian or paper sacks in a dark frost free place.
Sow winter greens such as Land cress, Mustard, Spinach, Corn salad and hardy Lettuce varieties such as Arctic King for spring use.
Pests and Diseases Keep Leeks covered with Enviromesh or fleece to protect from leaf miner and Leek moth attach.
Gather and dispose of fallen leaves around your Rose bushes affected with Black Spot and dispose of them but do not compost them to avoid spreading the disease to next year’s growth.
JOBS FOR AUGUST
Flowers Prune the current season’s growth off Wisteria to five leaves to encourage flower buds to be produced for next season’s display.
Continue to feed your hanging baskets and containers but change now to a high potash feed such as Tomato fertilizer.
Continue to regularly deadhead Roses unless grown for their ornamental hips.
Prune Rambling Roses that flower on the previous season’s growth. Remove a third of the oldest stems and shorten side shoots by two thirds on those remaining.
Shrubs Take non-flowering semi-ripe cuttings of this season’s growth to increase your stock of your favourite kinds.
Finish pruning of evergreen and deciduous hedges to avoid die back.
Lawns Raise the height of the cut and mow less often in dry weather and stop applying Nitrogen feeds to lawns now. Apply an autumn feed next month.
Fruit Complete the removal of fruited canes of summer fruiting Raspberries and tie in new canes to supports.
Harvest the very early ripening Apples and eating straight from the tree is best as they go “woolly” very quickly indeed.
Vegetables Now is the time of plenty in the vegetable garden. Harvest crops on a very regular basis before they go old.
Sow Spring Cabbage now for crops next May, use varieties such as Pixie and Durham Elf.
Sow leafy greens now for autumn and early winter use, such as Corn Salad, Land Cress, Rocket, Spinach and Winter Lettuces (such as Winter Density).
Pests and Diseases Protect ornamental plants which are susceptible to vine weevil.
Plants at this time of year become very susceptible to powdery mildew. Spray with a suitable fungicide at the very first signs of the disease.
GARDENING NOTES FOR JULY
Flowers Divide bearded Irises at this time of year by selecting young portions of the rhizomes about 4 to 6 inches long, trim the fan of leaves to about 6 inches and shorten the roots by about a half in length and then plant in their new positions but leave the rhizome on the surface of the soil. Don’t forget to water in.
Prolong the flowering of Sweet Peas, Roses, Dahlias, Cosmos and other flowers by regular dead heading.
Tie in the rapidly growing new growth on rambler and climbing Roses.
Remember to regularly water all plants growing in containers and feed weekly as well.
Vegetables and Fruit There is still time to make the final sowings of French Beans, Lettuce, Radish, etc directly into the open ground.
Keep Tomatoes evenly watered to prevent splitting of the fruit and Blossom end rot. Feed with a high potash feed weekly from now on.
Tie in the new growth of fruit, such as Raspberries, Blackberries and Loganberries, because it is on these shoots that you will get next year’s crop.
Pests and Diseases. Black blotches or spots on Apple and Pear trees is a sure sign of Scab infection, spray now especially on smaller trees to help prevent this.
Brassicas can be decimated at this time of year by the caterpillars of the Cabbage White butterfly. Pick off the caterpillars or use a suitable spray such as Provado Ultimate Fruit and Vegetable Bug Killer.
At this time of year Powdery Mildew is a problem especially if the weather is dry. Spray with a suitable fungicide before the problem gets too bad.
Potato Blight will be around now especially if the weather is humid. If found, cut off the potato growth as near to ground level as possible to prevent the blight going into the soil to affect the tubers. Discard the tops into your green waste bin but do not make any attempt to compost them as this will spread it again next year.
Distorted new shoots on many garden plants is the result of Capsid Bug damage. Fuchsias, Dahlia, Hydrangea are amongst those plants most commonly affected. Continue to control Lily Beetle as it is seen by pickling off the red beetles or spraying with Ultimate Bug Killer. If left such severe damage will result to your Lilies and the bulbs will be weakened so badly they may well not appear again next year.
JOBS IN THE GARDEN FOR JUNE
Ornamentals
1 Herbaceous plants are now growing strongly and will need some support before they
fall over.
2 If you have a Pyracantha shrub, now is the time to prune it by cutting back all new
growth to about 10cms (4 ins). This will shape up the plant and induce flowering spurs
for next year and many more berries.
3 Clematis Montana which has finished its flowering period should be cut back to a
framework. Clematis Montana can be pruned back severely if required at this time of
year but not at any other time.
4 Hedges can be clipped back to tidy up at the end of this month but be aware of any late
nesting birds.
5 Tie in the new growth on Climbing and Rambling Roses.
6 Early flowering perennials such as Hardy Geraniums and Oriental Poppies can be cut
down to almost ground level. New growth will quickly be replaced with a second flush
of flowers later on.
7 Flowering plants should be dead-headed on a regular basis from now on.
8 Any gaps in the border can now be filled up with any of your favourite flowers which
can be easily seen in a garden centre.
9 Now is an ideal time to sow bedding plants for planting out in the Autumn for a Spring
display next year. Wallflowers, Bellis (double Daisy), Myosotis (Forget-me-not) and Sweet Williams are among the best.
10 Regular weekly feeds to all plants growing in containers should be undertaken now.
11 House plants such as Begonia Rex and Streptocarpus can be easily propagated by leaf
cuttings at this time of year.
Fruit and Vegetables
1 Tomatoes should now be fed regularly with a high potash feed such as Tomorite and
side shoots should be removed from all cordon grown plants.
2 Sweetcorn plants raised earlier can be planted out now and seed can also be sown
directly into prepared ground but always grow this crop in a block formation as they are
wind pollinated.
3 Celery can be planted out now into well prepared soil enriched with plenty of organic
matter. Self-blanching types should be planted in blocks to help with the blanching
process of the young stems.
4 Plant out Marrows and Squashes now in fertile soil.
5 Runner Beans can still be sown up to the end of the month to crop in late Summer and
early Autumn.
6 Continue to sow quick crops like Lettuce, Radishes, Beetroot and Spring Onions for
succession.
7 Harvest first early Potatoes for those first new potatoes and if sown early enough Peas
can also be harvested.
8 Prune Fig trees by cutting back all new growth to five leaves this month.
9 Protect the ripening fruit of Raspberries, Strawberries and Currants from the attack of
birds by using netting over the crops.
JOBS IN THE GARDEN FOR MAY
1 Harden off bedding plants and colourful annuals sown in March and pricked off in April to start to acclimatise them to outside conditions prior to planting out in their final positions from the end of May.
2 From mid-month you can sow tender vegetables such as Marrows, Courgettes, Ridge Cucumbers and Runner Beans directly into the ground where they are going to grow. It is a good idea to sow two seeds per station, placed on their edge not flat, and if both grow, thin out to one later on.
3 Keep the hoe going between plants when conditions allow to keep down germinating weeds.
4 Protect the young growth on your plants from slugs and snails which are now very active. What you use is up to you, but protect you must in some way.
5 Roses are now growing away strongly and will benefit from regular spraying not only to keep down aphids but to reduce the attack of the dreaded fungal disease Blackspot. A product such as Roseclear will be able to do both.
6 Herbaceous plants which are now producing rapid growth will benefit by the application of a balanced general fertilizer such as Blood, Fish and Bone or Growmore spread around the plants. It will also prove beneficial if you mulch around your plants with well-rotted manure or garden compost. This will help in preventing drying out during the main summer months.
7 If you planted Potatoes earlier and they have appeared above soil level, earth them up by drawing soil up from each side of the row. This will help to protect the plants from a late frost but more importantly reduce the number of forming tubers being exposed to light and making then useless.
8 As pre-planted summer bulbs such as Lilies and Gladioli increase in height be prepared to give additional support to keep them upright.
9 It is not too late to still plant Gladioli, certainly up to the very end of the month. If planted on a successional routine the flowers can be had from June to late September.
10 Now is a good time to prune back the over-wintered growth from hardy Fuchsias by cutting the stems to near ground level to induce basal growth.
11 Early May is the time to sow next spring’s Brassica plants such as Purple Sprouting Broccoli. Sown earlier the plants will often get too big and suffer from any hard frosts or wind damage during the winter months.
12 Regular feeding of any plants being pot grown becomes a necessity. Feed with a balanced general liquid fertilizer or if Tomatoes are your crop use a high potash feed which is a Tomato specific fertilizer such as Tomorite.
JOBS IN THE GARDEN FOR APRIL
1 Now is a good time to sow colourful half hardy annuals for summer flowering. Sow either in a glasshouse or on a warm light windowsill. Some annuals like Calendula, Cosmos and Nigella may be sown directly into their flowering positions during April.
2 When early flowering shrubs such as Forsythia and Ribes (flowering currant) have finished flowering is a good time to prune them by cutting back to induce new young shoots for next year’s display.
3 All houseplants which are waking up as the days lengthen will benefit from potting on or if already in a large pot by topdressing i.e. removing the top inch or so of compost and replacing it with fresh potting compost.
4 As Tulips and Daffodils finish flowering remove the flower head but not the stem to allow goodness to do down into the bulb. Do not cut any leaves but let these die down naturally.
5 Make successional sowings of hardy vegetables such as Beetroot, Carrots, Lettuce, Radish and Spring Onions now outside.
6 Tender vegetables such as Marrows, Squashes and Pumpkins may be sown now but sow these in a protected environment. Sow the seed individually in small pots and place each seed on its edge, not flat.
7 Sow Brassicas such as Purple Sprouting, Cauliflowers and Cabbages for planting out in June or July for next year’s crop.
8 Plant out second early and maincrop Potatoes during this month.
9 Many will have been given Amaryllis bulbs over Christmas and the new year. Now they have finished flowering, remove the dead flower heads but not the stem and feed every two weeks with Tomato fertilizer to build up the bulb for next year. Always remember the bulb must be kept in full sun to ripen and set the flower buds for a future display.
10 Penstemmons should be cut back now to induce base growth which will give you strong flowering stems later in the year.
11 Broad Beans sown now in the soil outside will produce a crop later in the summer.
12 Tomatoes sown now will produce plants for planting outside in late May for Midsummer and early Autumn cropping.
13 If you wish to increase your houseplant numbers, now is a good time to take cuttings. Use a gritty multi-purpose compost and after watering, place in a polythene bag, but keep out of direct sunlight.
14 Many herbaceous perennials can be propagated now by either dividing the clump into small sections or by taking basal cuttings. Phlox, Lupins and Delphiniums are amongst the best for this method.
MARCH IN THE GARDEN
1 Herbaceous plants such as Hostas, Hemerocallis (Day Lily) and Phlox should be
divided now if the clumps are too congested.
2 Cut back Buddleija (Butterfly Bush) now by pruning hard back to get plenty
of new growth and keep the plant compact.
3 If we are lucky enough to get some drier weather and the soil surface dries out,
keep the hoe moving to get rid of newly germinated weed seedlings.
4 Now is a good time to start off Begonia corms for planting out later. Start off the
corms in small pots or trays using a multi-purpose compost. Bury the corms completely by covering with no more than ½ inch of compost and keep warm.
5 As Daffodils finish flowering, remove the dead heads but leave the stems to die back naturally over the next few weeks. Never cut away or tie up the green leaves
6 Protect newly emerging young shoots from the ravages of slugs and snails.
7 A mulch of well-rotted compost around your plants will pay dividends later in the year when the soil dries out.
8 Cut down winter shrubs used for stem colour now for a good display next winter.
9 Start off Dahlia tubers in a greenhouse or frame for early planting out later. Tubers can also be planted in the garden now if planted with at least 10cm (4ins) of soil above the tuber top.
10 Start regular cutting of lawns with the blades set at a higher level for a few cuts.
11 Gladioli corms can be planted now, but plant a few each week up to May to get a succession of flowers through the summer.
12 This month and April is a good time to repot Phalenopsis (Moth Orchids), if they have been in their pot for two years or more. Shake away all old compost, trim away any dead roots but leave all the silvery healthy roots. Use an Orchid Compost for this task.
13 Remove the tips from autumn sown Sweet Peas, this encourages basal shoots to develop where you will get the best possible display of flowers this early Summer.
14 Do not be tempted to cut hedges at this time of year because of nesting birds. Leave until the nesting season is over.
15 Tidy up Strawberry plants now by removing all dead or very old foliage. Feed with Blood Fish and Bone Meal around the plants.
16 Sow Peas outside directly into well prepared soil about 1” deep.
17 Start sowing indoor Tomato seeds for a crop later on.
18 Plant Onion sets, leaving the very tip of the set exposed.
19 It is too early to start sowing tender vegetables such as Runner Bean and French Bean – leave this until April.
20 Prune Blueberry bushes by removing about a third of the oldest wood to encourage new growth from the base.
Jobs in the garden for February
Trees and Shrubs Continue to plant bare root trees and shrubs. Not only is it a good time to plant while they are dormant but bare root specimens will be very much cheaper than those of a containerised nature or container grown. Always remember to plant no deeper than the soil mark on the stem. Jasmine nudiflorum should be pruned as soon as the majority of the flowers have faded by pruning back all the stems to two buds, around 2ins, from the main stem. This will produce many more shoots and flowers for next season. Any deciduous hedges can be pruned now to tidy up or if overgrown and can be cut back by as much as half now. Towards the end of February late flowering Clematis can be pruned by cutting back all last year’s growth to a few inches from soil level, about 6ins I would suggest.
Flowers Lift up clumps of Snowdrops and re-plant singly or in very small groups elsewhere but it is important to plant at the same level they were in in their old home. Sow hardy annual seed into cell trays if you have a greenhouse. Be careful not to cover the seed too deeply, just press the seed lightly into the surface and only cover with a small amount of compost. All seed packets should give you the information for each kind of seed and remember that some seeds need light for successful germination. Keep a careful watch for any planted containers becoming waterlogged at this time of year and if noticed immediately unblock the drainage holes and lift the container off the ground by placing battens or stones underneath.
Vegetables If you have a greenhouse and a heated propagator Tomatoes can be sown at the end of February to give an early crop. Again, undercover, but not in a propagator, Broad Beans, Brussels Sprouts and Shallots can be started off. Outside where you intend to sow your vegetables, now is a good time to cover the area with a black polythene sheet held down with clips or bricks. This will warm up the soil underneath ready for sowing when weather conditions are favourable in March.
Fruit If you grow some of the now widely available Citrus species they can be pruned now by cutting back any leggy shoots to form more bushy growth. Also cut away any weak or spent growth to tidy up. If your plant has been in its pot for a number of years, either pot on into a larger pot or remove the top 2 ins of soil and top dress with new compost. Remember always use a specific citrus compost for potting on or top dressing.
David Bassil, Show Manager
Jobs in the garden for January
Check tree ties to make sure they are not rubbing the bark, if so slacken off slightly, also check the stake to see it it is still secure.
If you have clumps of Iris Unguicularis the flowers will be developing amongst the old foliage; cut this off now so that the flowers can be seen.
Continue to plant newly bought bare root and container grown trees and shrubs. Remember to prepare the soil well incorporating as much organic matter as you can but if using fresh manure make certain that it does not touch the roots. If the weather is frosty leave planting until there is an improvement in the conditions. In the meantime just heel the bare root plants in to prevent the root from drying out.
Now is a good time to prune dormant deciduous trees and shrubs if needed to be done. However, Magnolias should be lift until spring to prevent dieback and members of the Cherry, Almond and Plum family should also mot be pruned at this time to prevent silver leaf disease taking hold.
If you are going to plant new Roses or Raspberries, remember to only plant in new ground where they have not grown before, this will prevent the replant diseases which are very common with these types of plant.
If you grow Peaches, now is the time to erect a cover over the tree to prevent an attack of Peach Leaf curl. This is obviously easier to do if the tree is trained against a wall or fence. If covered at this time it will prevent the rain splashing up the fungal spores to the developing new buds which is how this disease is spread. When pruning Apple trees do not remove more that 20% of the crown in any winter. More pruning than this will give you too much new growth at the expense of fruit bud production. On Gooseberries and Redcurrants remove dead wood and any low lying branches. Shorten the main leading shoots by a quarter, pruning to an outward facing bud and prune back all side shoots to 1-3 buds.
If you did not sow Broad Beans in the autumn now is the next best time to do it but this time sow in cell tray pots in a cold frame or cold greenhouse. The resulting plants can be planted out in the normal way in early March. Shallots can be planted now into well prepared ground but without the addition of manure. Keep the bulbs with only their tops exposed above ground level.
David Bassil, Show Manager